The Nomads Ledger

The Nomads LedgerThe Nomads LedgerThe Nomads Ledger
Home
About Who I Am
The chefs table
  • A Seat at My Table
  • Azerbaijan
  • Canada
  • Egypt
  • Mexico
  • Morocco
  • Portugal
  • Puerto Rico
  • Turkey
  • United States
  • Action Bronson's Chumbeh
  • James Beard Foundation
The Cigar Corner
  • My Humidor
  • LCDH, Bogotá
  • AJ Fernandez
  • Cuban Cohiba
  • Cuban Hoyo de Monterrey
  • Cuban H. Upmann
  • Cuban Partagas
  • Cuban Romeo y Julieta
  • Oliva
The Wine Cellar
  • Introduction
  • Reds
Adventures
  • Introduction
  • Azerbaijan 25'
  • Caribbean Sailing 24'
  • Egypt 25'
  • USVI/BVI 26'
  • Tenerife, Spain 25'
The Traveler's Quarters
  • Introduction
  • Morocco
  • Azerbaijan
  • Colombia
Contact Me

The Nomads Ledger

The Nomads LedgerThe Nomads LedgerThe Nomads Ledger
Home
About Who I Am
The chefs table
  • A Seat at My Table
  • Azerbaijan
  • Canada
  • Egypt
  • Mexico
  • Morocco
  • Portugal
  • Puerto Rico
  • Turkey
  • United States
  • Action Bronson's Chumbeh
  • James Beard Foundation
The Cigar Corner
  • My Humidor
  • LCDH, Bogotá
  • AJ Fernandez
  • Cuban Cohiba
  • Cuban Hoyo de Monterrey
  • Cuban H. Upmann
  • Cuban Partagas
  • Cuban Romeo y Julieta
  • Oliva
The Wine Cellar
  • Introduction
  • Reds
Adventures
  • Introduction
  • Azerbaijan 25'
  • Caribbean Sailing 24'
  • Egypt 25'
  • USVI/BVI 26'
  • Tenerife, Spain 25'
The Traveler's Quarters
  • Introduction
  • Morocco
  • Azerbaijan
  • Colombia
Contact Me
More
  • Home
  • About Who I Am
  • The chefs table
    • A Seat at My Table
    • Azerbaijan
    • Canada
    • Egypt
    • Mexico
    • Morocco
    • Portugal
    • Puerto Rico
    • Turkey
    • United States
    • Action Bronson's Chumbeh
    • James Beard Foundation
  • The Cigar Corner
    • My Humidor
    • LCDH, Bogotá
    • AJ Fernandez
    • Cuban Cohiba
    • Cuban Hoyo de Monterrey
    • Cuban H. Upmann
    • Cuban Partagas
    • Cuban Romeo y Julieta
    • Oliva
  • The Wine Cellar
    • Introduction
    • Reds
  • Adventures
    • Introduction
    • Azerbaijan 25'
    • Caribbean Sailing 24'
    • Egypt 25'
    • USVI/BVI 26'
    • Tenerife, Spain 25'
  • The Traveler's Quarters
    • Introduction
    • Morocco
    • Azerbaijan
    • Colombia
  • Contact Me
  • Home
  • About Who I Am
  • The chefs table
    • A Seat at My Table
    • Azerbaijan
    • Canada
    • Egypt
    • Mexico
    • Morocco
    • Portugal
    • Puerto Rico
    • Turkey
    • United States
    • Action Bronson's Chumbeh
    • James Beard Foundation
  • The Cigar Corner
    • My Humidor
    • LCDH, Bogotá
    • AJ Fernandez
    • Cuban Cohiba
    • Cuban Hoyo de Monterrey
    • Cuban H. Upmann
    • Cuban Partagas
    • Cuban Romeo y Julieta
    • Oliva
  • The Wine Cellar
    • Introduction
    • Reds
  • Adventures
    • Introduction
    • Azerbaijan 25'
    • Caribbean Sailing 24'
    • Egypt 25'
    • USVI/BVI 26'
    • Tenerife, Spain 25'
  • The Traveler's Quarters
    • Introduction
    • Morocco
    • Azerbaijan
    • Colombia
  • Contact Me

Azerbaijan - Baku and Khinaliq

Khinaliq

We'll talk about the capital, Baku, in a little bit, but first I want to talk about this mountain town because it was really special to me. Just a few miles outside the border of The Republic of Dagestan, Russia, lies a 5,000 year old ancient village called Khinaliq. It sits at 7,700 feet above sea level and is tucked into the sides of the caucasus mountains above the clouds. They don't quite speak Russian, or Azerbaijani, it's a unique indigenous language which is kind of a mix of both but I could be wrong. 


I took a day trip to the village from Baku in a good ole fashioned Russian Lada and it was the perfect vehicle for the trip. The ride all the way up into the mountains was incredible, I'm talking, nothing at all around, just cattle and sheep wondering on their own on the grassy parts of the mountain sides. I tagged along with my driver and in the back of the lady was another man and his wife from the UK, great folks. Once we got up to the village, the homes were very, very, simple construction but perfect mountainous homesteads. Water from wells, and livestock roaming about.


We were set to meet a gentleman in the village and have lunch, he invited us into his home with his family and we got to have lunch along with learning about himself and his history and the history of the village. His name was Hacıbala and I'm proud to call him a friend.


His home and family were wonderful, the house was filled with all kinds of trinkets that he had collected and there were many stories to hear. Hajibala (English written) didn't speak any English so we had to talk to each other via a translator. At the time of the visit, I'd say he was around his late 60's. He grew up in Russia and earned a degree in agriculture from a college during the Soviet Union and later moved on to Khinaliq. He had helped co-author a book about his village and gave me one that he had signed and left a note in. 


The note read "Америка - для Хыналыга - желаю путешествий Георгий" which roughly translates to "To my American friend, I wish you many journeys from Khinaliq - Hajibala"


Below, I'm going to post some pictures like I normally do but this time I'm going to make sure they're captioned so everyone knows what I'm talking about here. I've also posted some really cool videos further below.

Front of the Book from Hajibala

Front of the Book from Hajibala

Front of the Book from Hajibala

The Note he Left me

Front of the Book from Hajibala

Front of the Book from Hajibala

Hajibala and Myself

Front of the Book from Hajibala

Hajibala and Myself

This was inside his home where we shared a meal. You'll also find a few pictures I took of his Soviet era clock and diploma.

These are all pictures of the drive up to the village, you'll see the beautiful and staggering Caucasus mountains, sheep, etc.

A Few videos

Walking into Town

Driving up to Khinaliq

Driving through the mountains

This is looking out of Hajibala's house, could you imagine this as your front porch view?

Inside his home where we had lunch

Another view of the village

This was a stop we made at a high point in the Caucasus mountains

Baku

Baku, the beautiful capital city of Azerbaijan sits right on the west side of the Caspian Sea. I flew into Heydar Aliyev airport from Istanbul on a whim. It was actually never a part of my original itinerary but I noticed on my Marriott app that there was a Ritz there so naturally... I booked a flight and I am so glad I did. Upon arrival into the airport, I was blown away at how clean and modern everything was. I took a cab ride to the Ritz hotel and was so impressed with city. You'll see pictures of how clean it was, no trash anywhere and you could tell there was a lot of money involved. They produce oil from the Caspian so it makes sense, you can see the oil rigs when flying in. 


I also learned that F1 actually holds an annual circuit there in Baku and that further solidified how nice this place was. One day when I was going through the city in a cab, there were Bugatti, Ferrari, and Lamborghini dealerships all beside each other.


I did a lot of walking in the city and I'll tell you, I implore anyone to find a piece of trash on the street, the attention to detail was incredible. It reminded me of Rabat, Morocco with the cleanliness and seeing workers all about the city cleaning and sweeping everywhere.


Let's talk buildings and architecture. The Flaming Towers are a notable build, along with the Heydar Aliyev museum, the carpet museum that actually looks like a rolled up carpet, the National Flag Square, the Deniz Mall, and other buildings. Everything was absolutely incredibly built, the most modern it could look, clean with interesting lines and style. There was actually a giant hotel in the shape of a crescent moon (Muslim symbol) that was really impressive.


The food was some of the best I've ever had, I outline this in much further detail in the Chef's Table page under Azerbaijan. The women? Hands down the most beautiful and self respected I've ever seen in the world. American women could never. Everyone was super friendly to me and I learned a lot about their culture and country. One statement I'll never forget, on the first day, I was chatting with a girl and I asked her why the city was so clean and beautiful and her response was "Because we don't allow 3rd world immigrants in" and honestly, that checks out. Even as an American, I was only granted a 30 day Visa and I had to list occupation and income to get it. Smart move on Ilham Aliyev, he's running that country like a tight ship, well done sir.


I can't wait to go back to Baku, it became one of my favorite places so far, it's just quite far being 9 hours ahead of eastern which makes it hard for me to work with my conference calls. I remember taking calls at midnight and 1am haha.

Arriving into Heydar Aliyev Airport, the Airport was Beautifully Built

Some Pictures of the City of Baku, You'll See the Flaming Towers, Deniz Mall, National Flag Square and Parks

Heydar Aliyev Museum and The Carpet Museum

Copyright © 2026 The Nomads Ledger - All Rights Reserved.


Powered by