Turkey

One of those family owned, simple but truly incredible restaurants where they’re churning out passion in both customer service and flavor. I was all the way south in Turkey in the area of Cesme in the off season so it wasn’t very busy. I stumbled upon this place walking near the Cesme marina and it’s a place with food and people I’ll never forget. A very tiny restaurant with about 5 tables outside that’s ran by a son alongside his father, daughter, and other family members, they were so hospitable towards me and welcomed me numerous times while I was in Cesme. We did most of our talking through google translate and pointing and finger gestures haha. 

Some of the notable items I had started out with their mezze options that included piyaz, tzatziki, cold lemon vegetables, olives, and feta with dill and walnuts, this of course was served with fresh, warm, crusty bread. It was the first time I had piyaz which was simply a Turkish bean salad made with black eyed peas, red onion, lemon juice or red wine vinegar, herbs, and red bell pepper. The perfect bite was a spoonful of this with a piece of bread with the feta and the dip. Incredible. 

Moving on to actual dinner, it was usually a selection of lamb and chicken. I would do the lamb patties and the chicken skewers which were of course grilled over coals as is tradition. Gas or any other method would be blasphemy in Turkey. During my numerous visits, I also had the shrimp in garlic sauce which was done incredibly as well as the calamari. One visit, they had given me a free soup to try, I don't recall the name or what it was but it was a Turkish soup and I remember eating the whole bowl. 

Post meal, the son and father would sit with me, and in Turkish fashion—smoke their cigarettes while I would have my cigar and Turkish tea that they would give to me for free and we would sit and chat through the phone while laughing. One thing I noticed, sure they had simple metal cigarette ashtrays on each table but when they would see my cigar, they would bring me over a special marble ash tray—gestures like this mean a lot to me.

Great food, great people, great town—I can't wait to return and hopefully see each one of them again.

There's quite a lot to unpack here.

Tucked away in the countryside outside of İzmir, OD Urla is the kind of place you almost feel like you’ve discovered rather than simply visited. The drive itself sets the tone. Winding rural roads pass small farms and simple homes before eventually opening to a property that feels more like a working estate than a restaurant.

Upon arrival, guests walk down a long pathway lined with olive trees on both sides. These are not decorative; they are part of the restaurant’s own production, providing olives and olive oil used throughout the kitchen. Surrounding the property are expansive herb gardens where many of the seasonings and ingredients used in the dishes are grown. The entire setting reinforces the philosophy of the restaurant: everything begins with the land around it.

The property itself is larger than one might expect for a Michelin-starred restaurant. In addition to the dining areas and gardens, there is even a guest house on site for those who want to fully immerse themselves in the experience. Unfortunately I didn’t stay overnight during my visit, but it is certainly on the list for next time.

Before dinner I was fortunate enough to be given a tour of the grounds by the manager, followed by a visit to the wine cellar with head sommelier Yunus Öztürk. The cellar reflects the same philosophy as the kitchen—deeply rooted in the region while still celebrating the broader world of wine.

Guests have several options for seating. Some choose tables outside in the gardens, surrounded by the herbs and olive trees that supply the kitchen. Others opt for the traditional indoor dining room. I chose the chef’s table, which places you right in the middle of the action and offers a front-row seat to the precision and rhythm of the kitchen.

I ordered the tasting menu, which changes frequently with the seasons and available ingredients. While I may not remember every individual dish, what I do remember is the consistency of flavor and craftsmanship throughout the entire meal. One small detail that stood out was the brick oven constantly turning out bread made fresh to order—simple, rustic, and exactly the kind of touch that elevates the whole experience.

From the quiet drive through the countryside to the final bite of the meal, OD Urla felt less like a dinner reservation and more like spending an evening at a working culinary estate. It was one of those rare dining experiences where the setting, the people, and the food all come together seamlessly.

It is a place I look forward to returning to—next time, perhaps staying the night among the olive trees.